Leaving a vehicle inactive for too long can actually cause more damage than driving it daily. From flat batteries to seized brakes and flat spots on tyres, “mechanical stagnation” can lead to a nasty repair bill right when you need your car most. Here is the essential UK guide on how to look after a car you don’t drive regularly.
Leaving a car unused causes battery drain, brake rust and tyre damage. Drive it occasionally, maintain fluids, prevent damp, use a charger, and stay legally covered with MOT, insurance or SORN.
It sounds contradictory, where low mileage is a good thing. While low mileage adds value, total inactivity can destroy your car. Because the car is designed to move.
If you have a garage, use it. It’s perfect to protect against UV rays, bird lime, and tree sap.
If you are parking outside, be careful with car covers. A cheap, plastic waterproof sheet might seem like a good idea, but it often does more harm than good.
These covers trap moisture between the plastic and your paintwork, acting like a greenhouse that breeds mould and rust.
It is important to get a breathable, multi-layer outdoor cover. This allows moisture to escape while blocking rain and sun. If you can’t get a cover, try to park in a shaded area, but avoid parking directly under trees.
Before you leave the car for a long stint, give it a proper wash and dry. Do you know why? Because bird droppings and dead bugs are acidic. If left on your paintwork for weeks, they will etch into the clear coat, leaving permanent scars.
To protect your car, apply a coat of quality wax or a sealant. This acts as a sacrificial barrier, protecting the paint from the elements while you’re away. And also coat wheels, brakes and bumpers.
Modern cars are power-hungry. Even when the engine is off, the alarm, immobiliser, and onboard computers are sipping electricity. In as little as two weeks, a healthy battery can drop below the voltage needed to start the engine.
The best option is a smart trickle charger, also known as a battery conditioner. These devices monitor your battery and gently top it up only when needed.
If you park on the street and can’t run a cable, consider a solar battery maintainer that plugs into your OBD port or attaches to the dashboard.
Tyres are flexible rubber rings holding up 1.5 tonnes of metal. If they stay in one position for too long, the weight flattens the bottom of the tyre where it touches the road.
The solution is to inflate your tyres to roughly 40 PSI or about 10-15 PSI higher than your normal pressure before storing the car. This extra firmness helps them hold their round shape.
This is one of the most important checks that you should understand. In the UK, standard petrol is now E10 (containing up to 10% renewable ethanol). Ethanol attracts water from the air. So Fill the tank to the brim
If you leave a tank half-empty, the air space inside the tank allows condensation to form. The ethanol absorbs this water, which can corrode the inside of your fuel tank and fuel lines.
Less air space means less moisture. If you are storing the car for more than 3 months, consider adding a fuel stabiliser to keep the petrol fresh.
The UK is a damp island. Without the heater or air-con running, the air inside your car can become stale and moist, leading to mould on the steering wheel and seatbelts.
Remove all rubbish, especially food wrappers, which attract rodents. Then, place a passive dehumidifier, like a moisture trap tub or a few bags of silica gel. These will soak up excess moisture and keep the interior smelling fresh.
Just because you aren’t driving doesn’t mean the paperwork stops.
This is the most common mistake car owners make. You might think starting the car for 5 minutes “charges the battery” or “warms it up”.
The reality is idling doesn’t generate enough heat to burn off the condensation inside the engine, and it often drains the battery faster than the alternator can recharge it at idle speed.
The Golden Rule is to either drive the car for at least 15-20 minutes to get the oil hot and the battery charged.
| Area | What to Do | How Often | Why It Matters |
| Battery | Use a trickle charger or drive 15–20 mins | Weekly / Fortnightly | Prevents flat or sulphated batteries |
| Tyres | Inflate to +10–15 PSI above normal | Before storage | Avoids flat spots and tyre damage |
| Fuel | Keep tank full, add stabiliser if storing | Before storage | Prevents condensation and fuel corrosion |
| Brakes | Drive and brake gently | Weekly | Clears surface rust from discs |
| Engine | Avoid idling only | Always | Reduces condensation and oil dilution |
| Fluids | Check oil, engine coolant, and brake fluid | Monthly | Fluids degrade over time, not mileage |
| Interior | Use moisture traps, remove rubbish | Monthly | Prevents mould and damp smells |
| Exterior | Wash and wax before storage | Before storage | Protects paint from corrosion |
| Cover | Use breathable cover only | When parked | Prevents trapped moisture |
| Legal | Check MOT, SORN, insurance | Ongoing | Avoids fines and invalid insurance |
| EV Battery | Store at 50–80% charge | Long-term parking | Reduces lithium battery degradation |
| EV 12V Battery | Keep plugged in or maintained | Long-term parking | Prevents total vehicle shutdown |
If you have an electric vehicle (EV) or a plug-in hybrid (PHEV), the rules of storage are different. While you don’t need to worry about stale petrol unless it’s a hybrid, you do need to worry about battery drain.
Leaving an EV parked incorrectly can actually damage the expensive lithium-ion cells. Here is the 2026 standard for keeping your battery healthy while it sleeps.
Never store an EV with a battery at 100% or near 0%.
Many owners forget that EVs still have a standard 12-volt lead-acid battery (just like a petrol car) to run the locks, alarm, and computer. If this small battery dies, the big high-voltage battery disconnects for safety, and you won’t be able to “start” the car or even open the doors.
If you are leaving the car for more than a month, check your manual. Some manufacturers (like Tesla) recommend keeping the car plugged in to a home wall box with a charge limit set to 50%. The car will automatically tend to the 12V battery for you.
Simply idling the engine on your driveway for 10 minutes does more harm than good. It creates condensation in the exhaust and often drains the battery faster than the alternator can recharge it at idle speed.
To actually recharge the battery and warm the oil, you need to drive the car for at least 15–20 minutes. If you can’t do that, it is better to leave the engine off and use a trickle charger.
Leaving a car untouched for half a year can cause significant mechanical stagnation. The battery will be dead and sulphated. The tyres get flat, and the brake pads will likely have rusted to the discs. Lastly, engine oil may separate, and modern E10 petrol will likely have absorbed water, potentially corroding the fuel lines.
If the car is prepared correctly (battery on a charger, tyres over-inflated, fuel stabiliser added), a car can sit safely for 6 to 12 months. However, without any preparation, a modern car’s battery will typically die within 2 to 4 weeks due to the parasitic drain from the alarm and immobiliser.
All batteries suffer from natural self-discharge, losing a small percentage of power every week, even if disconnected. In a connected car, this is accelerated by parasitic loads – power silently used by the alarm, clock, and keyless entry receivers. This is why a battery can go down even if you turn the headlights off.
A SORN (Statutory Off Road Notification) is valid indefinitely. Unlike in the past, you no longer need to renew it annually. The SORN only expires when you tax the vehicle again, sell it, or scrap it. Remember that a SORN vehicle must be kept on private land and cannot be parked on a public street.
Looking after a car you don’t drive regularly doesn’t require hours of work. It just requires a little strategy. By keeping the battery charged, the tyres inflated, and the fluids fresh, you are ensuring that your car starts perfectly after its hibernation. It is ready to go, not ready for the scrapheap.